Plate and Goblet: Steakhouse savors (and final favors); mad dips; Hail Heilman; Roberto seeks new home

I've been hoping lately for an excuse to revisit Perry's, and the recent arrival of its Reserve wines presented me with the perfect opportunity. In late February, a friend and I met up to enjoy a tasting of the Reserve Red Wine Flight, paired with a sampling of three classic menu items.

The Pinot Noir pairing was a favorite for both of us. Accompanied by bite-sized portions of pecan-smoked pork chop, the wine's acidity provided a nice balance to the rich flavor of the meat (although we agreed the wine would be excellent on its own, too). We also enjoyed the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, which was paired with the Petite Filet Stack, a mini surf-and-turf morsel of crab, filet mignon and thick-cut bacon.

For the final pairing, we sipped the Big Red Blend and nibbled on the Akaushi Waygu – though "nibbled" does not begin to do justice to this New York Strip, which is sourced from a Texas ranch with the largest herd of Japanese Red Cattle outside of Kumamoto, Japan.

I'd had Waygu once or twice before – but the Japanese variety was another step up from even that melt-in-your-mouth decadence. A passing server described it best: "like meat butter."

Reserve flights are available for $25, which includes a two-ounce sample of each of the three California wines mentioned above. Although the food pairings we sampled are not included in that price, they can be found elsewhere on the menu.

As you might have guessed, a night at Perry's can be pricey, but they offer a couple of special menus for those on a budget. On Fridays (my favorite day to visit Perry's), lunch service begins at 10:30 a.m. and continues until 5 p.m. In addition, there's a daily senior menu for the 65-plus crowd (it requires reservations, and is only available for dine-in before 6 p.m.).

It's also worth a mention (especially during Lent) that Perry's offers seafood and meatless options, from ahi tuna steak and salmon to a vegan skillet featuring jackfruit chopped steak.

Before I leave the topic of Perry's, I can't resist noting that the Henrico restaurant made a name for itself recently -- and not just locally, but in People Magazine<>.

In this case, it wasn't the restaurant's food that played the starring role; it was the staff's service – and compassion.

Some months ago, a local family got the devastating news that their golden retriever, Emmie, had terminal cancer. In January, she took a turn for the worse, and at the veterinarian's office, they learned the cancer had spread.

With only a few hours left in their pet's life, the family decided to treat her to a last feast – and it just so happened that Perry's was across the street.

The restaurant's manager and staff rose to the occasion, and not only provided the dying dog with sparkling water, a special cake, and a meal of marrow bone and steak, but also gave her an "honor walk" into and out of the restaurant – complete with petting and hugs.

Emmie passed peacefully later that night, but her family will always remember the special goodbye Perry's gave her in those final hours.

If you missed the story on local news, CBS 6 was among the outlets that covered it.

Another one of my favorite lunch hangouts (somewhat more casual than Perry's) is the Heilman Dining Center at University of Richmond.

HDC, as it is known on campus, is open to the public (with the exception of special events like Commencement) and offers affordable and tasty buffet-style dining. Heilman is especially popular with my fellow members of the Osher Lifelong Learning Institute – who can truly appreciate how far D-Hall cuisine has come since we attended college in the 1960s and '70s.

Recently, UR Now featured the story of a Richmond football player, 2025 alum, and current graduate student who indulged his passion for the culinary arts by creating a variety of delectable dishes for a Heilman Chef's Table event. His “Game Day Small Plates” (ranging from chicken cutlets and Italian sausage sandwiches to ricotta cheesecake and rigatoni in creamy vodka sauce) centered around a theme of tailgate favorites..

Brian Catanzarite grew up in an Italian family where a love of cooking was part of their DNA, but his interest in cooking didn't really take off till one summer at UR. He was living in a residence hall with three teammates – and no meal plan.

All four teammates began experimenting in the kitchen that summer. But for Catanzarite, the cooking quickly developed into a hobby, and the hobby grew into a passion. After photos of his creations began appearing on social media, he was invited to try his hand at cooking for Chef's Table events.

Now, as he pursues his business studies at the Robins School, he does it with an eye on forming his own tailgating business after graduation. Read all about it online.

The latest issue of Richmond Magazine marked the approach of March Madness by featuring five stand-out dips to serve at game watch parties – and two of the five favorites are found in Henrico establishments.

The Smoked Jalapeno Pimento Cheese Dip from Tuckahoe Seafood on Starling Drive was lauded for its "smoky, piquant pimento cheese, laced with chives," while at Ukrop's Market Hall on Patterson Avenue (which qualifies, according to the magazine, as a "verified dip depot"), the seven-layer dip stands out for its satisfying layers of salsa, refried beans, black olives, sour cream, and more.

Openings
Richmond Magazine also reported the re-opening of O!nigiri in December, following a five-year pause brought on by the pandemic. Originally in Carytown, the shop is now located near the Lotte Market on West Broad Street, serving the steamed rice treat filled with everything from classic spicy tuna or salmon to varieties such as salted kelp and teriyaki Spam.

Another new West Broad Street restaurant, d'Annam, just opened in February – and stories immediately began circulating of long lines and waits for tables. According to RIC Today, d'Annam's pho is among the menu items winning avid fans, who post enthusiastically about the Vietnamese restaurant's fare on social media.

Coming soon
In February, the Citizen reported that Henrico will soon get its first Culver's frozen custard location, on Laburnum Avenue across from White Oak Village. The Wisconsin-based chain is famed not only for its small-batch frozen custard, but also for its ButterBurgers and fried cheese curds.

Richmond BizSense noted recently that Henrico will soon get its first revolving sushi bar, courtesy of the Kura chain. A conveyor belt laden with plates of sushi will wind through the Short Pump restaurant, passing by each table, and diners will be able to choose from the dishes as they pass. At Kura, the drinks are also served by robots.

Moving
Also according to Bizsense, Deep Run Roadhouse is planning to move from its current location on Gayton Road and relocate to the former Wendy's building nearby on John Rolfe Parkway.

Moving – or closing?
WRIC reported last week about an Eastern Henrico restaurant owner who's in a bind – having been given only a month's notice to move out of his location of almost 14 years.

Located across from the airport, Roberto Italian Restaurant has built a loyal following of locals and regular customers over the years, in addition to serving hungry travelers. But the restaurant will have to close if the owner cannot find a new location by the March 28 deadline to vacate.

According to WRIC, the Henrico Economic Development Authority is working with the restaurant owner to find a new location and avoid a shutdown.

Closings
Crafted, the Libbie Mill restaurant and bar, has closed.

Noodles & Company has closed its Innsbrook location. (The Willow Lawn Noodles & Company – now the sole Henrico location – continues to operate).

Park Lane Tavern in West Broad Village closed its doors last fall. The nearest Park Lane Taverns are now located in Fredericksburg and Hampton.

Golden-age gourmets
Finally, because I love wordplay, i just had to include this nugget about the cooking club at a Chicago-area senior living community.

Formed to encourage residents to get creative in the kitchen, the club – which no doubt includes a number of wheelchair users and other mobility-challenged seniors – goes by the name of the "Rolling Scones."

Pi Day lasts all week at Sheetz 
This week, Sheetz is celebrating National Pi Day (3/14) by offering specially-priced $3.14 cheese or pepperoni pizza Flatz. The offer will be available from March 14 through March 20 and can be redeemed through the Sheetz app by adding it under the OFFERZ tab.