I've been meaning to get back to Celeste Farms in Varina ever since attending one of their opening events in June 2023. And though I haven't yet made it there in person, I got to enjoy some fruits of the farm – literally – this past week.
While at a happy hour at Triple Crossing, one of my table mates ordered the brewery's Pace of Nature, a wild ale made with figs from Celeste Farms. I was intrigued by the idea of a fig-flavored beer, but – having just polishing off a Liberty or Death Porter and needing to head to another event – I had no chance to sample it.
The very next day, though, I stopped by Triple Crossing in Midlothian to pick up a bottle of Pace of Nature. While I can't say I detected the notes of "sweet tart candy" or "unripe blackberry" mentioned in the brewery's description, the hint of fig came through nicely, with just the right touch of tartness.
I can't say I will drink Pace of Nature on a regular basis, as it's pricey. But when I'm looking for a refreshing change from my usual IPA's, porters and stouts, or I'm in the market for a gift for a beer-lover, I'd be willing to splurge on it again.
Besides, I like supporting environmentally-friendly businesses like Celeste Farms – a regenerative farm that provides organically grown fruits, herbs and vegetables to local organic grocers, and also donates produce to area non-profits.The farm was recently recognized, in fact, with a countywide award for its sustainable practices.
In June, the Keep Henrico Beautiful Committee honored Celeste Farms with its annual Clean Business Award, citing its organic produce, farm-to-table restaurant, plant and crop biodiversity and composting.
Henrico's restaurants have enjoyed a slew of favorable mentions in the press lately. Style Weekly's 2025 "Best of Richmond" issue cited a number of Readers' Choice votes for favorite county restaurants, including Lakeside's Bryan Park Bar and Grill, which placed among the top three bars in the area. Bryan Park also placed third in "Best Bloody Mary" and third in the "Best Wings" department. In the "Best Brunch" category, another Lakeside Avenue eatery – SB's Lakeside Love Shack – captured top honors with first place.
As for the Steakhouse category, Buckhead's and Hondo's nearly swept the top three winning spots for Henrico, coming in at #1 and #3, respectively. Peter Chang, which has a Short Pump location in addition to its city outpost, won Best Chinese, while Lotte Plaza Market – frequently mentioned in this space – won Best Korean.
The Lakeside area was highlighted as well in Style's 2025 Food Issue, with Lakeside Tavern drawing a shout-out for – get this – its Korean cuisine. The magazine quoted a visitor who expressed surprise at finding good Korean in a bar, and recommended the Tavern's "killer bibimbap." The visitor added, "Great dive bar; not somewhere I would expect to have more than burgers and fries."
Roy's Big Burger on Lakeside Avenue also got a mention in Style's nostalgic look at hamburger joints.
Among other Henrico highlights in the Style Food Issue were Toast at the Village Shopping Center (burgers and bacon Brussels sprouts), Mr. Noodle (the new West Broad Street spot winning raves for its hand-rolled dumplings and hand-pulled noodles), and long-time Vietnamese favorite Mekong – known for its pho, dumplings, and noodle salads (not to mention extensive menu of beers). Together, Mekong and its Rigsby-Road neighbor Pho Tay Do took the top two spots in the Vietnamese category.
Another round-up of best local restaurants ran recently in the Richmond Times-Dispatch, and a bevy of Henrico favorites made the area's Top 100 list.
Lehja, known for its Indian food and award-winning wine list, came in at No. 7 among the area's restaurants, while Full Kee (No. 15) was honored with the title of "the OG of Cantonese restaurants in Richmond."
A number of Style Weekly favorites also made the RTD's list, including Buckhead’s, Mekong, Mr. Noodle, Peter Chang and Pho Tay Do. (Pho Tay Do's papaya salad, incidentally, was recently highlighted in Richmond Magazine's "Best Bites.")
Gelati Celesti, which has 2 Henrico locations, was cited in both the RTD and Style Weekly for its premium ice creams and unique flavors.
Among others rated as the RTD's best were a couple of Libbie Mill spots: Acacia Midtown and Shagbark. Acacia drew raves for its seafood ("one of the best lump crabcakes in town") and beef short rib ragout, while Shagbark's Southern contemporary cuisine was praised for menu items ranging from shrimp and grits to its much-loved sticky toffee pudding.
The Original Ronnie’s BBQ – no surprise – also made the list, as did Tazza Kitchen and Columbian bakery and breakfast spot Café y Sabor. For contemporary Southern fare, the RTD recommended Hobnob, the Hermitage Road restaurant just a block or so off Lakeside Avenue. Fried green tomatoes, fried chicken sandwiches, and a rockfish BLT were among the highlights noted by the TD – as were Hobnob's Sunday brunch and pistachio ricotta cake.
Rounding out the list of top Mexican restaurants are La Doña Cocina Mexicana, which specializes in tamales and made-from-scratch sauces, marinades and tortillas, and Chicken Fiesta, the locally owned rotisserie chicken chain with Henrico locations on Brook Road and West Broad Street. Chicken Fiesta is known best for its marinated, roasted chicken, but regulars also tout its ribs, taco platters, and yucca fries with dipping sauces.
Speaking of sauces, Con Salsa on Mountain Road was touted for its creamy green dressing combining flavors of avocado, cilantro, garlic and more – a popular accompaniment to just about everything on its menu of arepas, fried plantain sandwiches, and other Venezuelan treats.
For diners who crave spiciness and heat, the RTD recommended Cheng Du on West Broad Street, where one can get a fix of Sichuan fare like chili oil-tossed cold noodles, boiled fish slices served in chili sauce, or spicy cumin lamb. Anokha, the Indian restaurant on Lauderdale Drive, offers a number of savory, spicy dishes as well – from seafood goan curry to crispy fried cauliflower florets in garlic-tomato glaze.
The Wine Whisperer might seem a bit out of place on the TD's list of restaurants – but then the self-described "wine boutique" is not your typical wine shop. The Short Pump site features a cafe and bar, and dinner entrees ranging from roasted lamb lollipops to coq au vin, in addition to upscale appetizers like flatbreads and burrata. All ready to be paired with the perfect wine, of course – by the glass, flight, or bottle.
And while we're on the subject of upscale dining, what better way to wrap up the list of TD honorees than with Henrico's Chez Max?
In naming Chez Max to the Top 100 list, the RTD naturally extolled a number of its French delicacies, from sole meunière and glazed duck à l'orange to escargot swaddled in puff pastry. But the ambience at Chez Max receives equally high marks -- charming guests into imagining they've been whisked away from a Henrico strip mall to a cozy French inn for dinner.
Finally, a couple of long-established Henrico restaurants were in the spotlight recently in the Richmond Magazine feature "Remember That Place?", which revisits local restaurants that have stood the test of time.
Boychik's Deli in Innsbrook, which has been serving New-York-style breakfast and lunch favorites since 1990, is a popular hang-out known for its pastrami, Challah French toast, and chicken and dumplings soup.
Located on Three Chopt Road, The Grapevine has been a favorite destination for Greek and Italian food since 1994 (moving from Lauderdale Drive to its current location in 2001). Among the classics and crowdpleasers on the Grapevine menu are baklava, spanakopita, and, of course, heaping plates of pasta.
Tidbits and transitions
• Recently opened Henrico restaurants include Emmy Squared Pizza in West Broad Village and Indian Aroma, which took over the former Mantu space near the Regal Cinema in Short Pump.
• Casa Italiana has opened a new market and pizza shop next door to its restaurant on Three Chopt Road.
• Coming soon: RVA Bakehouse is expected to open a bakery this fall in Libbie Mill.
• ChefSuite (highlighted in two 2023 editions of Plate and Goblet) has closed.
