Plate and Goblet: Colonial cuisine, Kitchen takes Root, and elite Henrico dives
Being both a history buff and a foodie, I was all in for the May 21 history lecture at Gayton Library, "Summertime in the Kitchen" – and it did not disappoint. Historian Lisa Denton of Henrico Recreation and Parks not only led the audience on a tour of early American food and drink and of the dawn of the nation's food culture, but also singled out a few founding fathers (and mothers) who played notable roles in our culinary history.
The presentation, which centered around a fact-versus-fiction theme, touched on topics ranging from tomatoes (once thought to be poisonous) to the variety of roles played by water from colonial times through the temperance movement.
Denton also traced the history of the pineapple in colonial America, describing its evolution from a rare, exotic fruit and status symbol – prized by hosts and often displayed in centerpieces – to its modern association with hospitality. For illustration, she flipped through a series of pineapple images decorating items through the centuries: from fence posts and wallpaper to paintings and pillars.
The talk (part of Henrico Library's 250th series) concluded with a look at ice cream and some of the myths that surrounded its introduction to the colonies.
While Thomas Jefferson is often credited with introducing ice cream to the U.S., records show that George and Martha Washington developed a liking for the frozen treat well before Jefferson began touting it. After tasting the dessert on a visit with the Royal Governor of Virginia in Williamsburg, Washington ordered an ice house built at Mt. Vernon. Later, during his presidency, Martha helped to popularize the dessert by serving ice cream at Friday evening receptions.
Another First Lady often associated with the sweet treat is Dolley Madison, who served strawberry ice cream at the White House during the 1813 inaugural banquet. Dolley Madison was known as someone who enjoyed experimenting with flavors, and some say that oyster-flavored ice cream was her favorite.
But it is Jefferson who is considered to be the "Founding Foodie," said Denton. While he may not have been the first to serve ice cream, he did have a lot to do with establishing the popularity of the vanilla flavor.
As Minister to France, he traveled throughout Europe, and sought to introduce many of the foods and ingredients he encountered there (think Parmesan cheese and olive oil) to the States. He was also passionate about his vegetable garden, and an early believer (today he'd be an influencer) in making fresh produce the heart of one's diet.
For more on Jefferson's "Founding Foodie" credentials, click here.
Sadly, there were no tastings accompanying the presentation. Both Denton and the library event promo had been clear that there would not be – but a few of us had fun fantasizing afterwards about a tasting event, just the same.
I was easily the only one in the group, however, who heard the words "oyster ice cream" and found myself seized by a craving for it. The craving led to an online quest, which pinpointed a couple of area sweet shops that have offered the delicacy in the past – but only on a very occasional or seasonal basis.
So for now my craving will go unsatisfied. If any readers out there should find oyster ice cream available in Richmond, however, I'd be eternally grateful if you'd send a heads-up my way. (And I apologize in advance if you have to hold your nose while you do it.)
Roots opens in Innsbrook
My June 5 timing was perfect, as I arrived at the new Roots Natural Kitchen in Innsbrook just prior to the opening festivities.
Not only did I get to enjoy the ribbon-cutting and champagne-spraying (from a safe distance), but I also was lucky enough to nab the first spot in line at the "Neighbor Lunch." For the pre-opening event, Roots offered two of its most popular customizable bowls (El Jefe and Pesto Caesar) for the bargain price of $5.
Requesting the works on my El Jefe (brown rice, kale, black beans, charred corn, red onion, feta, pita chips and avocado), I chose to top it with grilled chicken – and ended up with a tasty, satisfying lunch that I could not even come close to finishing. The bowl was so packed with greens, grains, veggies and protein that the leftovers ended up as my dinner.
I had never been to a Roots Natural Kitchen before, even though there are three other locations in the area (including 6602 West Broad Street in Henrico) – but I'm certain my June 5 visit won't be my last. Of all the interesting things I learned about Roots on my first visit, the one that impressed me most was that children eat free. And by "children" they don't mean simply tiny tykes; the free meals (check website for restrictions) apply all the way up through age 11.
When I expressed my surprise, I was told that the kids-eat-free policy fits with the Roots mission of not only making natural foods more accessible, but also providing the youngest diners (and others who might be natural-foods-averse) with the chance to discover that eating such foods can be "delicious and filling."
Additional openings
• Holy Burger, a popular New York City hamburger spot, is open at 8300 Brook Road in Henrico in a building that formerly housed a Wendy's. The chain’s signature Holy Burger is a mixture of short rib and brisket, topped with American cheese, Holy Sauce, lettuce, tomato and onion.
• Graze Craze, a charcuterie chain, recently opened its first Richmond location in Gayton Crossing. The shop features selections of meats, cheeses, fruits veggies, spreads and desserts, in sizes ranging from cups to trays, boards, and party platters.
• Chipotle Mexican Grill is now open in eastern Henrico, near the intersection of Laburnum and Mechanicsville Turnpike.
• Flavor Hive, which emphasizes locally-sourced ingredients and small-batch, unique foods, opened in May at 1080 Virginia Center Pkwy in Glen Allen. Originally a food truck, Flavor Hive now has multiple brick-and-mortar locations in Northern Virginia and Maryland.
• Paris Baguette Café, a bakery café concept with more than 4,000 locations worldwide, opened its first Richmond-area location in May at 3524 Pump Road. Paris Baguette offers breads, cakes and pastries in addition to wraps and sandwiches, including breakfast sandwiches.
• A new Wingstop location is now open in the Promenade Shops at 11645 West Broad Street; the space formerly housed Umi Sushi Bistro.
On the horizon
• Civita Italia Ristorante & Bar is slated to open in the GreenGate development this month.
• Richmond BizSense reports that drive-thru coffee chain Dutch Bros will soon set up shop at 5816 Broad Street near Willow Lawn (formerly occupied by Zaxby's. The Arizona-based chain sells lemonade, iced tea and smoothies in addition to coffee drinks, muffins and granola bars.
• The Richmond Times-Dispatch reports that the owners of Lola's Farmhouse Bistro in Goochland expect to open Opa! Social, serving Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, in August. The restaurant will be located in the Libbie Mill space that formerly housed Crafted.
Kudos
• Local food writers Debra Freeman and Justin Lo, who were both nominated for James Beard Media Awards. Considered the "Oscars" of the food world, the James Beard Awards recognize not only restaurants, but the writers, filmmakers and storytellers who cover them.
Lo, the Times-Dispatch restaurant critic who also contributes to RVA Magazine, was nominated for three of his works, including a story entitled "Dinner Party Politics," about lawmakers and where they dine while in Richmond.
Local food writer Debra Freeman was nominated for best food-related documentary for the series, "Finding Edna Lewis," which aired on VPM. Hosted and produced by Freeman, the docuseries was the the first major documentary about Edna Lewis, a Black woman from Virginia who became a chef and cookbook author and was known as the "Grande Dame" of Southern cuisine.
• Intermission Beer Company was named one of six finalists nationally for the Samuel Adams Brewing & Business Experienceship, which founders Courtney and Justin White attended in New York earlier this month. Intermission has locations in Henrico (10089 Brook Road) and Hanover (10180 Lakeridge Parkway).
• Several Henrico hangouts were named among the area's "Best Dive Bars" by the Times-Dispatch, in an article that also explored the definition and culture of dive bars. The Dugout, Daddio's, Lakeside Tavern, and The Beach House were among the local dives making the "elite" list.
Closings
• Bambu RVA, a three-year-old coffee and dessert shop in Innsbrook, closed May 31, according to the Times-Dispatch.
• The Times-Dispatch also reported in May that Redemption, the barbecue place that reinvented itself as a deep-dish pizza restaurant, closed its location on Lauderdale Drive. The owner, however, still hopes to relocate.
