Plate and Goblet: New Shack; fun with fermentation; Redemption repeats

Shake Shack opened its newest Richmond-area location Sept. 17 on West Broad Street at North Gayton Road in Short Pump. Representatives of Feed More and the Greater Richmond Chamber of Commerce attended the ribbon-cutting ceremony, and Shake Shack donated $1 to Feed More for every sandwich sold at the new location on opening day.

Not long before attending the ribbon-cutting, I read an article about Shake Shack and was surprised to learn that it started as a hot dog cart in New York City. This YouTube video has the story of its rapid expansion and phenomenal success.

For the second time in as many years, Redemption BBQ on Lauderdale Drive has won praise from Southern Living.

In a Fall 2024 P&G, we noted that Redemption was one of 22 new BBQ restaurants highlighted in a recent issue of the magazine, and was lauded for both its tasty pork and tangy sauce.

Now Redemption has earned a place in the magazine's hall of fame once again, making Southern Living's list of "Top 50 BBQ Joints in the South."

In the 2024 story, the writer had some fun with the restaurant's name, punctuating his praise with an enthusiastic "Amen," and noting that pitmaster John Vest is a former pastor. For this go-round, he comments that Vest works six days a week to "redeem" traditional Virginia barbecue, and adds a mouth-watering description of the “Praise the Lard Fries” (cooked in 100% lard, as are the "airy, pork rinds.)

I’ve been hearing about Shorty's Diner for awhile, and finally had a chance to visit there with three friends in late August.

My cheese steak was so hefty I had to take more than half of it home. The others enjoyed the tuna melt, a tuna salad, and the Piggyback Pork BBQ Bacon Burger; they also heaped praise on the potato salad. Prices were reasonable, and our server, Jessica, was friendly and efficient. This little gem is near Willow Lawn, just off West Broad Street and Libbie Avenue.

On Sept. 20, SAN-J held its annual fermentation open house, featuring factory tours, hands-on koji-making workshops, local fermented food vendors, and of course, tastings. The Eastern Henrico site, located just south of the airport, was crawling with families and fermentation fans, enjoying the chance to make their own miso balls, sample miso soup, and munch on popcorn seasoned with tamari.

As always, the favorite food treat was the frozen custard topped with tamari sauce; it's so popular that SAN-J now distributes tickets instead of allowing unlimited tastes. Apparently, frozen custard lovers at past open houses (who, me?) may have gorged on multiple samples and caused them to run out early.

Fortunately, one of the perks of admission was the chance to fill a small souvenir bottle of extra virgin tamari – a special first pressing not yet available in stores – to make "tamari sundaes" at home.

New and recently opened

• The fast-casual tea house Ben Wong's, located on Willow Lawn Drive, leads a recent Richmond Magazine list of new restaurants. Ben Wong's Tea features an in-house bakery and serves bubble tea, coffee drinks and both savory and sweet croissants, among other snacks.

• Further up West Broad Street near Costco, a Venezuelan coffee shop also features baked goods, ranging from South American, European and American pastries and breads to croissants and cinnamon rolls. Despite the name, and a menu that includes espresso drinks, Sicilian Bakery leans more toward Venezuelan specialties than Italian.

• Fresh pasta is the specialty at Pizza Square & Italian Market, a neighborhood market on Three Chopt Road that offers takeout and delivery. Pizza, focaccia, grilled panini, and salads and house-made mozzarella are among the options.

• O!nigiri, which was originally located in Carytown, has moved to West Broad Street near the Lotte Plaza Market. The take-out shop features a menu of Japanese street food, ranging from seafood delicacies to giant rice balls and stuffed rice triangles wrapped in seaweed.

• Grace, a farm-to-table spot located across the street from Village Shopping Center, is technically in the city, but will no doubt draw heavily from Henrico neighborhoods. With a focus on farmhouse cooking and sustainability, Grace features a wood-fired oven and a menu of shareable small plates centering around fish and veggies.

• Meredith Lindemon of the Richmond Times Dispatch checked out The Local at Forest Avenue and Ridge Road, which opened in March in the former Kuba Kuba Dos space, and gave it high marks. While Lindemon was complimentary of the generous servings and diverse menu items (burgers and sandwiches in addition to such entrees as pork chops and spaghetti and meatballs), she reserved her highest praise for the cozy ambience in the bar, claiming that she has yet to find a drinking spot "so subjectively perfect." The subdued lighting, terracotta-style tile floors, and "gleaming wood bar" – not to mention a tucked-away TV set that doesn't dominate the scenery or conversation – all combine to give The Local maximum appeal, according to Lindemon. (You had ME with the mention of the bar's unobtrusive television; so hard to find these days!)

If Lindemon's description doesn't motivate you to visit The Local in the next few weeks, at least put the Nov. 15 grand opening (5 to 10 p.m.) on your calendar. It will feature live music and a chance to look over the restaurant's holiday menus and food truck, which is available for special events.

And farewell to....

• two recently-closed Short Pump restaurants: Park Lane Tavern, which took over the former Keagan's spot in 2019, and Bocata Arepa Bar, which served Venezuelan fare for almost a decade;

• the Zaxbys restaurant on West Broad Street near Willow Lawn. (Two other Henrico Zaxbys remain: at 9110 Staples Mill Road and 4798 South Laburnum Avenue.

Down the road

• BizSense reports that a 7 Brew is expected to take up residence near Willow Lawn in summer 2026. The drive-thru coffee shop chain will build on the property near the intersection of Staples Mill Road and West Broad Street after the current building (formerly a car dealership) is demolished. Plans call for the site to feature two drive-throughs, which will be accessible from both Broad and Caskie streets.

• BizSense also reports that a Fleming's steakhouse soon will join the new Shake Shack in the West Village development; plans also call for retail space and townhome-style condos.