Henrico County VA

Spies like us

Local contingent views underside of D.C. during bus tour
What’s in a Yurchenko Shooter?

Who was apprehended in the Hollowed Nickel Case?

What do chalk marks, Coke cans, adhesive tape and bed linens have in common?

If answers come readily to mind, chances are you’ve just been on the “Spies of Washington Tour.”

Introduced in 1995, the fundraiser for the Cold War Museum made its Richmond debut in June with a motorcoach trip that blended history and international intrigue with tidbits of trivia and “lifestyles of the rich and famous.”

“We’ll be seeing Washington,” said tour guide Carol Bessette, a retired Air Force intelligence officer, “in a very different light.”

Noting the renewed interest in intelligence issues following recent revelations about Sept. 11, she remarked that the day’s itinerary held much more than could be encompassed in the term ‘spy.’

“I wish I could call this an ‘Intelligence Tour,’” Bessette shrugged with a wry grin. “But that’s not marketable!”

‘Confidential informant’ aboard
As the bus hop-scotched across Northern Virginia and Washington, pausing at sites that included embassies, parks, hotels and private homes, Bessette made frequent reference to the analogy of intelligence work as a “Wilderness of Mirrors.”

Francis Gary Powers, Jr., who boarded the bus in Fredericksburg to play the tour’s “Confidential Informant,” attested personally to the distorted, conflicting information that is a hallmark of cold war events.

Powers has spent years sifting through military records and media accounts about his famous father, the U-2 spy shot down over Russia in 1960, and plans to include propaganda disseminated by both sides in the Cold War Museum that he spends every spare moment promoting.

Proceeding with the story of his father’s narrow escape from his crippled U-2 and his subsequent capture, trial, and imprisonment, Powers paused often to contrast 21st-century perspectives with the relative innocence of Americans in those pre-Watergate, pre-Monica days.

“In 1960,” Powers reminded his listeners, “no one had even heard of the CIA. It was not a weekly television show.”

Gary Powers, Sr. was released, after 21 months in prison, in exchange for a Soviet spy who had been caught in the Hollowed Nickel Case. (The spy carelessly paid a paperboy with a phony coin that had been hollowed out for storage of secrets.)

After the death of his father in a helicopter crash in 1977, Powers, Jr., began a quest to learn more about his father’s life and times – a quest that eventually led him to found the Cold War Museum in 1996.

The museum, which became an affiliate of the Smithsonian Institute last year, currently houses its artifacts in a traveling exhibition. Officials are negotiating for a site at the former Nike Missile Base in Lorton, which will serve not only as the exhibit’s permanent home, but as a base for educational programs. A third goal of the museum is to erect Cold War memorials.

“The Cold War was not always a cold war,” Powers pointed out. “Sometimes it got very hot. My father’s U-2 was just one of 38 Cold War shootdowns.”

Of the 250 crew members involved in the shootdowns, Powers added soberly, 138 remain unaccounted for. “A memorial will help the families find closure.”

‘The bridges of Fairfax County’
As the bus glided through the Arlington neighborhood that was once the home of CIA employee Aldrich Ames, Bessette provided a sample of suspicious spending habits – such as paying for his half-million-dollar home in cash – that eventually gave away Ames’ role in providing secrets to the Soviets. During a pause at the nearby stop sign where Ames was arrested one morning in 1994, Bessette indicated the upscale-but-ordinary suburban surroundings and mused about the likely reaction as the intersection suddenly swarmed with police.

“The neighbors were just getting up...puttering around in slippers or in their yards, “ she speculated, “[when] one vehicle blocked [Ames’] way, and one pulled in behind him...Imagine!”

Among other spies Bessette profiled were Cold War figures John Walker and Robert Hanssen, and Civil War spies Thomas Nelson Conrad and Rose O’Neal Greenhow. The tour group disembarked at Lafayette Square to see the former haunt of Conrad, a Confederate spy who watched President Lincoln’s movements from a bench near the White House. Greenhow, a Washington socialite who gathered military information from her vast network of contacts, passed it along to Confederate leaders by hiding papers in the folds of her skirts.

The group also got off the bus in McLean to see one of the footbridges used as a drop site by Hanssen, the FBI agent caught spying for the Russians last year.

“We call this tour ‘The Bridges of Fairfax County,’” joked Bessette.

In addition to drop sites, the tour also visited “signal sites,” such as the mailbox that replaced one that Aldrich Ames marked with chalk to indicate when a drop was waiting. Bessette’s list of other interesting codes used by Washington spies included items ranging from adhesive tape on utility poles to Coke cans “discarded” at designated intersections. In Civil War days, Confederate sympathizers waved sheets and pillowcases from Georgetown University windows to broadcast troop movements and other news.

Lunch among spies
For lunch, the Richmond group dined at Au Pied de Cochon in Georgetown, where a plaque marks the seat used by Soviet defector Vitaly Yurchenko in 1985. The KGB colonel was the highest-ranking Soviet official to defect to the U.S. – but within three months he re-defected to the Soviet Union by slipping out the back door of Au Pied de Cochon.

In his honor, the restaurant serves a “Yurchenko Shooter” composed of half vodka, half Grand Marnier. Bessette informed the group that Yurchenko was said to have eaten poached salmon for his last meal in the U.S.

“So those of you who opted for the salmon for lunch,” she laughed, “are doing something historic.”

As the bus returned to Parham Park & Ride that evening, Vern Joyce of Glen Allen was among the participants who agreed that the tour had been both unique and educational. “It was different,” said Joyce, “not what you’d expect.” Patti Pitts, who lives in the Innsbrook area, added that she also liked seeing the new Russian Embassy and viewing some of Washington’s “beautiful homes.” Although she lived in the Washington area for years, said Pitts, “I would never be able to find all those places!”

Donna Criddle of Glen Allen was pleasantly surprised to learn that the tour guide was a friend she had not seen in many years – but was not at all surprised, being familiar with Bessette’s background, to find her a wealth of information. Bessette was quick to counter that the “Spies of Washington” trip is regularly patronized by military officers, government employees and intelligence experts, and they continually enrich her knowledge and expertise.

“I learn as much from the people on the tours,” admitted Bessette, “as they do from me.”

For information on the next Spy Tour to depart Richmond, call SignaTours at 379-6500. Information on Spy Tours originating in Washington is available at the Cold War Museum website at http://www.coldwar.org .
To read more about Francis Gary Powers, Jr., and his recent visit to Henrico County, see the March 7, 2002 Citizen, available at http://www.henricocitizen.
com.
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Community

RAMPS receives $8k grant


RAMPS (Ramp Access Made Possible by Students) recently received an $8,000 grant from the Christopher and Dana Reeve Foundation. The award was one of 75 grants totaling more than $600,137 awarded by the Reeve Foundation to nonprofit organizations nationwide that provide more opportunities, access, and daily quality of life for individuals living with paralysis, their families and caregivers.

RAMPS, an organization founded by then-Henrico County high school students to build ramps for local low-income residents who need them, will use the grant to purchase modular wheelchair ramp supplies. These supplies will be used by local high school RAMPS clubs, who provide volunteers to build the ramps. > Read more.

Henrico man to compete in Liberty Mutual Invitational National Finals

Henrico resident Larry Loving, Jr., will compete with three other locals – Thomas Scribner (Richmond), Roscoe McGhee (Midlothian) and Larry Loving (Richmond) in the Liberty Mutual Insurance Invitational National Finals at TPC Sawgrass, in Ponte Vedra Beach, Fla., Feb. 26-Mar. 1. The foursome qualified for the national golf tournament by winning the Liberty Mutual Insurance Invitational, held at Whiskey Creek Golf Club in Ijamsville, Md. on June 11. That event supported the RiteCare Center for Childhood Language Disorders.

In total, 240 amateur golfers will compete in Florida. > Read more.

Henrico PAL recognizes supporters, HSHS athlete


The Henrico Police Athletic League (PAL) held its Sixth Annual Awards Banquet Feb. 5 at The Cultural Arts Center of Glen Allen, celebrating accomplishments of 2014 and recognizing outstanding contributions to the organization. Henrico County Juvenile Domestic Court Judge Denis Soden served as master of ceremonies and former Harlem Globetrotter Melvin Adams served as keynote speaker. 

Among the 2014 honorees were Richmond International Raceway (Significant Supporter), Richmond Strikers Soccer Club (Significant Supporter), Henrico County Schools-Pupil Transportation (Summer Camp Supporter), Bruce Richardson, Jr. (Youth of the Year), Sandra Williams (Volunteer of the Year), Thomas Williams (Employee of the Year), Mikki Pleasants (Board Member of the Year), and Michelle Sheehan (Police Officer of the Year).   > Read more.

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Entertainment

Travinia brings contemporary elegance to Willow Lawn


It was another win for Willow Lawn when Travinia Italian Kitchen and Wine Bar opened there six months ago, nestled in the heart of the re-made shopping center. The contemporary American Italian restaurant boasts 13 locations up and down the East Coast, with the Henrico location opening in August.

In the same week, I hit up Travinia twice, once for lunch and once for a late dinner. At lunchtime on a weekday, I was overwhelmed by the smell of garlic and by the number of working professionals in nice suits on their lunch breaks. When we first walked in, I was concerned our meal would be a little too pricey based on the décor – it’s a really nice place. Luckily, the menu has a variety of options for every budget. > Read more.

Soak up the fun

‘SpongeBob’ movie energizes with wit, laughter

There’s a ton of sugar in The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge Out of Water. Literal sugar, as SpongeBob Squarepants (Tom Kenny) and Patrick (Bill Fagerbakke) inhale their own weight in cotton candy and eat ice cream, one scoop per mouthful.

At one point we burrow into the brain of our boxy yellow hero and discover the inner workings of his brain: googly-eyed cakes and candies that giggle and sing. All of which is extremely appropriate for a film like Sponge Out of Water. Because not only is the movie sweet (the “awwww” kind of sweet), but it’s the equivalent of a 30-candy bar sugar rush, zipping between ideas like a sponge on rocket skates.

The story under all this is really not that complicated. SpongeBob flips burgers at the Krusty Krab. > Read more.

Weekend Top 10


With this last round of snow still fresh on the ground, the best way to start the weekend may be at Southern Season for their weekly wine-tasting program, Fridays Uncorked. Families with cabin fever will enjoy the Richmond Kids Expo, taking place tomorrow at the Richmond Raceway Complex. Some date night options include the Rock & Roll Jubilee at The Cultural Arts Center at Glen Allen, HATTheatre’s production of “The Whale” and National Theatre Live’s “Treasure Island” at the University of Richmond. For all our top picks this weekend, click here! > Read more.

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