Spies like us

What’s in a Yurchenko Shooter?

Who was apprehended in the Hollowed Nickel Case?

What do chalk marks, Coke cans, adhesive tape and bed linens have in common?

If answers come readily to mind, chances are you’ve just been on the “Spies of Washington Tour.”

Introduced in 1995, the fundraiser for the Cold War Museum made its Richmond debut in June with a motorcoach trip that blended history and international intrigue with tidbits of trivia and “lifestyles of the rich and famous.”

“We’ll be seeing Washington,” said tour guide Carol Bessette, a retired Air Force intelligence officer, “in a very different light.”

Noting the renewed interest in intelligence issues following recent revelations about Sept. 11, she remarked that the day’s itinerary held much more than could be encompassed in the term ‘spy.’

“I wish I could call this an ‘Intelligence Tour,’” Bessette shrugged with a wry grin. “But that’s not marketable!”

‘Confidential informant’ aboard
As the bus hop-scotched across Northern Virginia and Washington, pausing at sites that included embassies, parks, hotels and private homes, Bessette made frequent reference to the analogy of intelligence work as a “Wilderness of Mirrors.”

Francis Gary Powers, Jr., who boarded the bus in Fredericksburg to play the tour’s “Confidential Informant,” attested personally to the distorted, conflicting information that is a hallmark of cold war events.

Powers has spent years sifting through military records and media accounts about his famous father, the U-2 spy shot down over Russia in 1960, and plans to include propaganda disseminated by both sides in the Cold War Museum that he spends every spare moment promoting.

Proceeding with the story of his father’s narrow escape from his crippled U-2 and his subsequent capture, trial, and imprisonment, Powers paused often to contrast 21st-century perspectives with the relative innocence of Americans in those pre-Watergate, pre-Monica days.

“In 1960,” Powers reminded his listeners, “no one had even heard of the CIA. It was not a weekly television show.”

Gary Powers, Sr. was released, after 21 months in prison, in exchange for a Soviet spy who had been caught in the Hollowed Nickel Case. (The spy carelessly paid a paperboy with a phony coin that had been hollowed out for storage of secrets.)

After the death of his father in a helicopter crash in 1977, Powers, Jr., began a quest to learn more about his father’s life and times – a quest that eventually led him to found the Cold War Museum in 1996.

The museum, which became an affiliate of the Smithsonian Institute last year, currently houses its artifacts in a traveling exhibition. Officials are negotiating for a site at the former Nike Missile Base in Lorton, which will serve not only as the exhibit’s permanent home, but as a base for educational programs. A third goal of the museum is to erect Cold War memorials.

“The Cold War was not always a cold war,” Powers pointed out. “Sometimes it got very hot. My father’s U-2 was just one of 38 Cold War shootdowns.”

Of the 250 crew members involved in the shootdowns, Powers added soberly, 138 remain unaccounted for. “A memorial will help the families find closure.”

‘The bridges of Fairfax County’
As the bus glided through the Arlington neighborhood that was once the home of CIA employee Aldrich Ames, Bessette provided a sample of suspicious spending habits – such as paying for his half-million-dollar home in cash – that eventually gave away Ames’ role in providing secrets to the Soviets. During a pause at the nearby stop sign where Ames was arrested one morning in 1994, Bessette indicated the upscale-but-ordinary suburban surroundings and mused about the likely reaction as the intersection suddenly swarmed with police.

“The neighbors were just getting up...puttering around in slippers or in their yards, “ she speculated, “[when] one vehicle blocked [Ames’] way, and one pulled in behind him...Imagine!”

Among other spies Bessette profiled were Cold War figures John Walker and Robert Hanssen, and Civil War spies Thomas Nelson Conrad and Rose O’Neal Greenhow. The tour group disembarked at Lafayette Square to see the former haunt of Conrad, a Confederate spy who watched President Lincoln’s movements from a bench near the White House. Greenhow, a Washington socialite who gathered military information from her vast network of contacts, passed it along to Confederate leaders by hiding papers in the folds of her skirts.

The group also got off the bus in McLean to see one of the footbridges used as a drop site by Hanssen, the FBI agent caught spying for the Russians last year.

“We call this tour ‘The Bridges of Fairfax County,’” joked Bessette.

In addition to drop sites, the tour also visited “signal sites,” such as the mailbox that replaced one that Aldrich Ames marked with chalk to indicate when a drop was waiting. Bessette’s list of other interesting codes used by Washington spies included items ranging from adhesive tape on utility poles to Coke cans “discarded” at designated intersections. In Civil War days, Confederate sympathizers waved sheets and pillowcases from Georgetown University windows to broadcast troop movements and other news.

Lunch among spies
For lunch, the Richmond group dined at Au Pied de Cochon in Georgetown, where a plaque marks the seat used by Soviet defector Vitaly Yurchenko in 1985. The KGB colonel was the highest-ranking Soviet official to defect to the U.S. – but within three months he re-defected to the Soviet Union by slipping out the back door of Au Pied de Cochon.

In his honor, the restaurant serves a “Yurchenko Shooter” composed of half vodka, half Grand Marnier. Bessette informed the group that Yurchenko was said to have eaten poached salmon for his last meal in the U.S.

“So those of you who opted for the salmon for lunch,” she laughed, “are doing something historic.”

As the bus returned to Parham Park & Ride that evening, Vern Joyce of Glen Allen was among the participants who agreed that the tour had been both unique and educational. “It was different,” said Joyce, “not what you’d expect.” Patti Pitts, who lives in the Innsbrook area, added that she also liked seeing the new Russian Embassy and viewing some of Washington’s “beautiful homes.” Although she lived in the Washington area for years, said Pitts, “I would never be able to find all those places!”

Donna Criddle of Glen Allen was pleasantly surprised to learn that the tour guide was a friend she had not seen in many years – but was not at all surprised, being familiar with Bessette’s background, to find her a wealth of information. Bessette was quick to counter that the “Spies of Washington” trip is regularly patronized by military officers, government employees and intelligence experts, and they continually enrich her knowledge and expertise.

“I learn as much from the people on the tours,” admitted Bessette, “as they do from me.”

For information on the next Spy Tour to depart Richmond, call SignaTours at 379-6500. Information on Spy Tours originating in Washington is available at the Cold War Museum website at http://www.coldwar.org.
To read more about Francis Gary Powers, Jr., and his recent visit to Henrico County, see the March 7, 2002 Citizen, available at http://www.henricocitizen.
com.
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HCPS wins national honor for overhaul of Code of Student Conduct, supports


Henrico County Public Schools recently was recognized by the National School Boards Association for a sweeping overhaul of the school division’s approach to student supports. HCPS was one of five large U.S. school systems recognized with a first-place honor in the 2017 Magna Awards, presented Saturday in Denver at the organization’s annual conference. The awards recognize school divisions and leaders “for taking bold and innovative steps to improve the lives of students and their communities,” according to the group.

The award recognizes Henrico Schools’ efforts of the past several years, from re-examining its policies to implementing more support systems. After a two-year conversation with the community through public hearings and other feedback, HCPS adopted a revised Code of Student Conduct for the 2015-16 school year. > Read more.

Environmentalists say budget hurts efforts to protect bay

Environmental groups are outraged at the Trump administration’s proposed funding cuts for Chesapeake Bay cleanup programs.

President Donald Trump’s budget plan, released last week, reduces the budget for the federal Environmental Protection Agency by 31 percent. That includes a $427 million in funding to address regional pollution, such as the Chesapeake Bay protection efforts. The proposed budget would eliminate funding for the EPA’s Chesapeake Bay Program, which received $73 million from the federal government in 2016. > Read more.

Glen Allen ES principal receives REB Award


Melissa Halquist-Pruden, principal of Henrico County’s Glen Allen Elementary School, earned the 2016-17 REB Award for Distinguished Educational Leadership. The Community Foundation presents the award to four principals annually – one each from the school systems of Henrico, Chesterfield and Hanover counties and one from the city of Richmond schools.

The award recognizes principals who go beyond the day-to-day demands of their jobs to create an exceptional educational environment. The award stresses management and communication skills, and the ability to inspire, encourage and advocate for the school. > Read more.

Grant to help Hermitage H.S. upgrade CTE program equipment


Governor Terry McAuliffe announced recently that Henrico County’s Hermitage H.S. will be among 16 high schools and technical centers statewide to receive a grant to upgrade equipment for career and technical education (CTE) programs.

The program gives priority to challenged schools, Governor's STEM Academies and Governor's Health Science Academies. Each school or center will receive $37,500 to purchase new equipment and make other necessary improvements. At Hermitage, the funds will be used for precision machining equipment. > Read more.

Virginia raises a toast to George Washington’s whiskey


George Washington is recognized as the father of our country, but with a bill signed into law by Gov. Terry McAuliffe, Washington also will be recognized under another title – distiller of Virginia’s official liquor.

SB 1261, sponsored by Sen. Adam Ebbin of Alexandria, adds a “state spirit” to the list of the commonwealth’s official emblems and designations and crowns George Washington’s rye whiskey with the title.

The bill, which McAuliffe signed last week, highlights George Washington’s contributions to the culture of Virginia as “a native son of Virginia born on February 22, 1732, in Pope’s Creek”; “the first American president, commander of the Continental Army, and president of the Constitutional Convention”; and “a model statesman ... universally acknowledged as the father of our nation.” > Read more.
Community

Villa’s Flagler Housing wins national NAEH award


St. Joseph's Villa’s Flagler Housing & Homeless Services was one of three entities to earn the National Alliance to End Homelessness' Champion of Change Award. The awards were presented Nov. 17 during a ceremony at the Newseum in Washington, D.C.

NAEH annually recognizes proven programs and significant achievements in ending child and family homelessness.

Flagler completed its transition from an on-campus shelter to the community-based model of rapid rehousing in 2013, and it was one of the nation's first rapid re-housing service providers to be certified by NAEH. > Read more.

RIR’s Christmas tree lighting rescheduled for Dec. 12


Richmond International Raceway's 13th annual Community Christmas tree lighting has been rescheduled from Dec. 6 to Monday, Dec. 12, at 6:30 p.m., due to inclement weather expected on the original date.

Entertainment Dec. 12 will be provided by the Laburnum Elementary School choir and the Henrico High School Mighty Marching Warriors band. Tree decorations crafted by students from Laburnum Elementary School and L. Douglas Wilder Middle School will be on display. Hot chocolate and cookies will be supplied by the Henrico High School football boosters. > Read more.
Entertainment

Weekend Top 10


For our Top 10 calendar events this weekend, click here! > Read more.

 

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The Cultural Arts Center at Glen Allen will hold an opening reception for “Vibrance: Lego Art” by Brickworkz/Brian Korte from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Colorful mosaics will be on display, made entirely with LEGO bricks. Wine and refreshments will be served. Admission is free and open to the public. The exhibit will be on display through May 21 in the Gumenick Family Gallery. For details, call 261-ARTS or visit http://www.artsglenallen.com. Full text

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